Southern Minnesota Ace stores Paint Quiz

Ever wonder what paint is best for you?   Wonder about your style?

Take our quick paint quiz and let the Southern Minnesota Ace stores help you find the best paint for you and your home.

Click here to take the quiz

Shop at: Raleigh's Ace - 2525 Bridge Ave, Albert Lea, MN
D&G Ace - 1417 1st Ave. SW, Austin, MN
Cannon Falls Ace - 21265 County 24 Blvd, Cannon Falls, MN
Dodge Center Ace - 20 Airport Road N, Dodge Center
Faribault Ace Hardware - 421 2nd Ave. NW, Faribault, MN
Jackson Ace Hardware - 916 Highway 71 N, Jackson, MN
Luverne Ace Hardware - 210 E. Lincoln St., Luverne, MN
McCabes Ace Hardware - 1200 Main Street E., Sleepy Eye, MN
Retzlaff's Ace Hardware - 21 N. Minnestoa Ave, New Ulm, MN
Rushford MN Ace Hardware Store - 402 S. Mill St, Rushford, MN
St. Charles Ace Hardware - 1313 Whitewater Ave., St. Charles, MN
Schwalbach Hardware - 193 9th St., Windom, MN
Schwalbach Hardware - 1131 Oxford St., Worthington, MN

November Hot Buys at your Southern MN Ace Stores

Get your November Hot Buys at your Southern Minnesota Ace stores.  We are ready to help you prepare for Minnesota winter.

Shop at: Raleigh's Ace - 2525 Bridge Ave, Albert Lea, MN
D&G Ace - 1417 1st Ave. SW, Austin, MN
Cannon Falls Ace - 21265 County 24 Blvd, Cannon Falls, MN
Dodge Center Ace - 20 Airport Road N, Dodge Center
Faribault Ace Hardware - 421 2nd Ave. NW, Faribault, MN
Jackson Ace Hardware - 916 Highway 71 N, Jackson, MN
Luverne Ace Hardware - 210 E. Lincoln St., Luverne, MN
McCabes Ace Hardware - 1200 Main Street E., Sleepy Eye, MN
Retzlaff's Ace Hardware - 21 N. Minnestoa Ave, New Ulm, MN
Rushford MN Ace Hardware Store - 402 S. Mill St, Rushford, MN
St. Charles Ace Hardware - 1313 Whitewater Ave., St. Charles, MN
Schwalbach Hardware - 193 9th St., Windom, MN
Schwalbach Hardware - 1131 Oxford St., Worthington, MN


 

Installing or replacing electric switches

Installing or Replacing Electrical Switches
Follow these tips and instructions on how to replace or install electric switches to save you time and effort. Before beginning any electrical repairs, turn off the power at your service panel, fuse box or breaker box. If you know which fuse or breaker controls the circuit you will be working on, remove that fuse or trip that breaker. If there is any doubt, you can remove the main fuse or trip the main breaker.
CAUTION: Tripping the main breaker or removing the main fuse will usually shut off all power to the house. Take the time to read the directions thoroughly to help ensure a satisfactory job.

THREE BASIC TYPES OF WALL SWITCHES

• Toggle Switch The popular toggle switch has an arrow-shaped armature that floats between the contact points when the switch is in the off position (see part A, first image below). This armature comes in contact with both terminals when the switch is flipped to the on position (see part B), thus providing a continuous flow of electrical current to the light or appliance.
• Mercury Switch The mercury switch has a small hollow cylinder, partially filled with mercury (see second image below). In the off position, the small contact point is above the mercury level (see part A). When flipped to the on position, the contact point is immersed in mercury (see part B). This establishes contact between the two terminals and provides power to the light or appliance.
• Silent Switch The silent switch has a steel spring armature that is pressed away from the bottom terminal when the switch is turned off (see part A, third image below). Flipping the switch lever to the on position moves the steel spring back against the contact point (see part B), thus establishing contact in the circuit.

INSTALLING THE SINGLE-POLE TOGGLE SWITCH

• The simplest switch system - the single-pole toggle switch - is illustrated in this image. The ordinary single-pole toggle switch provides a means for breaking or feeding electrical current to a light, appliance, etc.
• The single-pole toggle switch has two brass terminal screws. One wire (usually the black) is cut, then is connected to the two brass terminals. The other wire (white) is uninterrupted from the power source to the light or fixture.

• When connecting a wire to the terminal screw of a switch, always turn the loop on the end of the wire in the same direction as the screw threads, as shown in part A of this image. If the loop is turned in the opposite direction (part B), tightening the screw will loosen the loop.
• If the wire connects to the terminal screw and then runs on, cut and strip the wire on both sides of the cut. Using a 6" piece of wire with both ends stripped (sometimes called a pigtail) and a wirenut, fasten the three wires together. Connect the pigtail to the terminal, as in the first image below.
• Use wirenuts or screw-on connectors to save time and effort when you must make a splice in any electrical wire (see second image below). Always cover any soldered connection with insulating tape. If soldered sections are rough, apply an extra layer of tape. Insulate the wire an additional inch or two beyond the soldered connection in each direction.
• White wires should generally be attached to light colored terminal screws such as silver. Black wires should generally be attached to dark colored screws such as brass colored. If the terminal screws are the same color, either wire can generally be attached to either terminal. Green terminal screws are for grounding wires.

INSTALLING SWITCH OUTSIDE MAIN WIRING RUN

• Use an ordinary toggle switch for installations outside the main wiring run. Shut off all current at the main service panel. At the light fixture, connect the black wire from the switch to the black wire from the light fixture. Connect the white wire from the switch to the black wire from the power source (see image).
• CAUTION: Anytime it is necessary to connect a white and black wire together, take the time to paint the white wire black at both ends to indicate that the white wire is attached to a power source. Connect the white wire from the light fixture to the white wire from the power source.
• At the light switch, connect the black wire to one terminal and the white wire to the other. Remember, a green screw is always for the ground wire.

INSTALLING IN-LINE SWITCH FOR CONTROL OF ONE LIGHT

• Shut off all current at the main service panel. A third wire (red, see image) must be added to the power cable for this switch arrangement. The red wire serves as a black wire from the switch to the light or outlet which is to be controlled.
• Study the diagram carefully. You will note that the white wire feeds continuously from the power source to all fixtures. The black wire is pigtailed on one terminal of the switch, while the red wire attaches to the other terminal. The black wire then runs continuously through to the light or outlet which is not controlled, while the red wire runs from the switch terminal to connect with the black wire on the controlled light or outlet.
• This arrangement allows the switch to control the first light or outlet while power continues uninterrupted to the second fixture.

INSTALLING SWITCH AND CONVENIENCE OUTLET IN SAME BOX

• Shut off all current at the main service panel. At the double-switch box (see image), connect a pigtail to the brass terminal on the outlet and another pigtail to either of the terminals on the switch. Wirenut these two pigtails and the black wire from the light fixture together. Connect the white wire from the light fixture to the silver terminal on the outlet. Connect the red wire from the light fixture to the other terminal on the switch.
• At the light fixture, wirenut the white wires from the power source, the light fixture and the switch together. Wirenut the black wires from the power source and the switch together. Wirenut the red wire from the switch and the black wire from the light fixture together.

INSTALLING TWO PARALLEL SWITCHES FOR CONTROL OF TWO SEPARATE LIGHTS

• Shut off all current at the main service panel. At the switch box, attach a pigtail to one of the terminals on switch 1 (see image). Connect a second pigtail to one of the terminals on switch 2. Wirenut these two pigtails and the black wire from the light fixture together. Connect the red wire from the light fixture to the other terminal on switch 1. Connect the white wire from the light fixture to the other terminal on switch 2. Be sure to paint the white wire black.
• At light fixture 1, wirenut the black wire from the power source and the black wire leading to light fixture 2 together. Wirenut the white wires from the power source, light fixture 1 and light fixture 2 together. Wirenut the black wire from light fixture 1 and the red wire to light fixture 2 together.
• At light fixture 2, wirenut the black wires from light fixture 1 and the switches together. Wirenut the white wires from light fixture 1 and light fixture 2 together. Wirenut the red wires from switch 1 and light fixture 1 together. Wirenut the white wire from switch 2 and the black wire from light fixture 2 together. Be sure to paint the white wire black.

HOW A THREE-WAY SWITCH WORKS

• This illustration uses open-knife switches to demonstrate how a three-way switch works. Wire No. 1 feeds directly from the power source to the light fixture. However, power must be fed through two wires for the light to function. The flow of power through wire No. 2 is continued or broken by the two switches, as illustrated.
• Power through wire No. 2 reaches the first switch at the center or common terminal (A). If the knife-switch handle were in position (B), the current would flow through to terminal (D). However, this arrangement would not provide a continuous power flow since the knife switch, as illustrated, is at position (G). The light bulb would not be illuminated.
• Since the first switch is at position (C), the current flows directly through terminal (E) to terminal (F), then through handle (G) to turn on the light. Note that when either handle is placed in the opposite position, the circuit is broken and the light is not illuminated.
• Note also that if you swing either handle to the opposite position, the current flow is made continuous and the light goes on again. Obviously, knife switches are not used in an electrical installation. They are used here simply to illustrate what happens inside an ordinary three-way switch when it is installed.

THREE-WAY SWITCHES FOR LIGHT CONTROL BEYOND SWITCHES

• Shut off all current at the main service panel. At the light fixture, wirenut the white wires from the power source and the light fixture together (see image). Wirenut the black wires from the power source and the switches together. Wirenut the black wire from the light fixture and the white wire from the switches together. Paint the end of the white wire black.
• At switch 1, locate the terminal on the three-way switch that is marked as common and attach the red wire. Attach the black wire to either of the two remaining terminals. Attach the white wire to the last terminal.
• At switch 2, locate the terminal on the three-way switch that is marked as common and attach the red wire. Attach the white wire from switch 1 to either of the two remaining terminals. Paint the end of the wire black. Attach the black wire from the light fixture to the last terminal. Wire the black wire from switch 1 and the white wire from the light fixture together. Paint the end of the white wire black.

THREE-WAY SWITCHES FOR LIGHT CONTROL BETWEEN SWITCHES

• Shut off all current at the main service panel. At switch 1, find the terminal marked as common and attach the red wire (see image). Attach the white wire to either of the two remaining terminals. Attach the black wire to the last terminal.
• At switch 2, find the terminal marked as common and attach the red wire. Attach the white wire to either of the two remaining terminals. Attach the black wire to the last terminal.
• At the light fixture, wirenut the two red wires from the switches together. Wirenut the two white wires from the switches together. Wirenut the black wires from the power source and switch 1 together. Wirenut the white wires from the power source and the light fixture together. Wirenut the black wires from the light fixture and switch 2 together.

TOOL AND MATERIAL CHECKLIST

Screwdriver	Two-Wire Feed Cable
Three-Wire Feed Cable	Side-Cutting Pliers
Wirenuts or Scew-on Connectors	Outlet Boxes
Knife for Stripping Wire	Cable Connectors
Toggle Switches	Keyhole Saw
Pigtails	Three-Way Switches
Insulating Tape	Cable Straps
Hand Cleaner

 

Check your state and local codes before starting any project. Follow all safety precautions. Information in this document has been furnished by the North American Retail Hardware Association (NRHA) and associated contributors. Every effort has been made to ensure accuracy and safety. Neither NRHA, any contributor nor the retailer can be held responsible for damages or injuries resulting from the use of the information in this document.

Get expert advice at:

Raleigh's Ace - 2525 Bridge Ave, Albert Lea, MN
D&G Ace - 1417 1st Ave. SW, Austin, MN
Cannon Falls Ace - 21265 County 24 Blvd, Cannon Falls, MN
Dodge Center Ace - 20 Airport Road N, Dodge Center
Faribault Ace Hardware - 421 2nd Ave. NW, Faribault, MN
Jackson Ace Hardware - 916 Highway 71 N, Jackson, MN
Luverne Ace Hardware - 210 E. Lincoln St., Luverne, MN
McCabes Ace Hardware - 1200 Main Street E., Sleepy Eye, MN
Retzlaff's Ace Hardware - 21 N. Minnestoa Ave, New Ulm, MN
Rushford MN Ace Hardware Store - 402 S. Mill St, Rushford, MN
St. Charles Ace Hardware - 1313 Whitewater Ave., St. Charles, MN
Schwalbach Hardware - 193 9th St., Windom, MN
Schwalbach Hardware - 1131 Oxford St., Worthington, MN

October Hot Deals - save on products at your local Ace.

October Hot Deals - save on products at your local Ace.
Shop at:
Raleigh's Ace - 2525 Bridge Ave, Albert Lea, MN
D&G Ace - 1417 1st Ave. SW, Austin, MN
Cannon Falls Ace - 21265 County 24 Blvd, Cannon Falls, MN
Dodge Center Ace - 20 Airport Road N, Dodge Center
Faribault Ace Hardware - 421 2nd Ave. NW, Faribault, MN
Jackson Ace Hardware - 916 Highway 71 N, Jackson, MN
Luverne Ace Hardware - 210 E. Lincoln St., Luverne, MN
McCabes Ace Hardware - 1200 Main Street E., Sleepy Eye, MN
Retzlaff's Ace Hardware - 21 N. Minnestoa Ave, New Ulm, MN
Rushford MN Ace Hardware Store - 402 S. Mill St, Rushford, MN
St. Charles Ace Hardware - 1313 Whitewater Ave., St. Charles, MN
Schwalbach Hardware - 193 9th St., Windom, MN
Schwalbach Hardware - 1131 Oxford St., Worthington, MN

Southern MN Ace Stores September Hot Buys

Everything you need for fall fix ups is available at your Southern Minnesota Ace store.  Check out these Southern MN Ace Stores September Hot Buys.  Then, contact your local store to get your Hot Buys before they run out.  A complete list of stores is at the bottom. 

Shop at: Raleigh's Ace - 2525 Bridge Ave, Albert Lea, MN
D&G Ace - 1417 1st Ave. SW, Austin, MN
Cannon Falls Ace - 21265 County 24 Blvd, Cannon Falls, MN
Dodge Center Ace - 20 Airport Road N, Dodge Center
Faribault Ace Hardware - 421 2nd Ave. NW, Faribault, MN
Jackson Ace Hardware - 916 Highway 71 N, Jackson, MN
Luverne Ace Hardware - 210 E. Lincoln St., Luverne, MN
McCabes Ace Hardware - 1200 Main Street E., Sleepy Eye, MN
Retzlaff's Ace Hardware - 21 N. Minnestoa Ave, New Ulm, MN
Rushford MN Ace Hardware Store - 402 S. Mill St, Rushford, MN
St. Charles Ace Hardware - 1313 Whitewater Ave., St. Charles, MN
Schwalbach Hardware - 193 9th St., Windom, MN
Schwalbach Hardware - 1131 Oxford St., Worthington, MN

10 Ways to Conserve Energy in your Southern Minnesota Home

Here are 10 ways to conserve energy in your Southern Minnesota Home.

 

Important Ways to Conserve Both Heat - and Money - This Winter

Article from Ace Hardware

Controlling energy costs is always a concern for homeowners...and it will be an even greater challenge this winter. A double whammy of strong demand for energy and the disruption of delivery systems and supplies in the aftermath of the Gulf Coast hurricanes likely will result in higher prices for natural gas, heating oil and electricity.
In fact, the Energy Information Administration projects heating bill hikes ranging from 31 percent in the Northeast to 71 percent in the Midwest. Electricity prices could rise as well, as almost one-fifth of electricity is generated using natural gas.

While it's no secret that you'll be spending more to heat your home this winter, if you take measures to conserve energy, you can significantly minimize the impact.

Here are my top 10 energy savings tips:
Service your heating system. This is my number one rule. By paying a service technician $75 to $100, depending on where you live, he or she will clean the unit and replace filters in the furnace and humidifier, thus insuring that the equipment is running at its most cost-efficient and optimum capacity. This should be done annually.

Install a programmable thermostat. A recent study revealed that only 24 percent of Americans have installed this handy device - for shame! Well-insulated homes can save up to 30 percent on heating costs with one. You can program these thermostats to automatically lower temperatures when at work or while sleeping, thereby saving energy hours at a time. Prices for programmable thermostats range from $40 to $100, and will quickly pay for themselves.
Shop programmable thermostats

Add weather stripping around windows and doors. Use of door thresholds, window caulking and plastic window film can go far in saving your money this winter. If you live in a drafty home, you could save up to 20 percent with an investment of as little as $25. One product to consider is a product called Windjammer (Ace no. 1200989), a clear, weatherproof gel that dispenses from a can and seals drafts. What's more, it can be easily removed at the end of the season.
Shop weather stripping and window insulator kits

Install ceiling fans in your home. Running the fans slowly and in reverse will keep warm air circulating throughout the house, thereby reducing running time for the furnace. Ceiling fans add a nice decorative touch as well.
Shop ceiling fans

Check furniture arrangement in your rooms. Are you unknowingly blocking vents and radiators with a big sofa or armchair? If so, you're restricting the airflow in your home, resulting in higher output from your furnace or boiler. Rearranging the furniture can save your units from having to work overtime.

Install a tankless water heater. I always remind people that this amazing technology has been around for 70 years, yet U.S. homeowners have been slow to adopt it. These days, units are less expensive, and by creating hot water on demand as opposed to continuously heating stored water, homeowners can save hundreds of dollars over time.
Shop tankless water heaters

Be smart about setting the temperature. Homeowners can save up to 3 percent on energy bills simply by turning down the thermostat just one degree. You won't even notice the change in temperature, but your heating bill will.

Install thermo-pane windows in your home. These multi-pane windows can have R-values of as high as 9.1. The higher the R-value, the more resistant the glass is to losing heat. Conversely, your typical single pane glass has an R-value of 1. The difference is an increase in energy efficiency of up to 70 percent.

Properly insulate your ceilings and attic. Heat rises, and if there isn't enough insulation in the space above, your money literally is going out the roof. Most ceilings and attic spaces should have at least an R-30 rating, although some areas of the country recommend an R-40-50 rating.

Let the sun be your guide. It's free energy! During the day, open up drapes and blinds and let the sun heat your home. At night, draw the curtains to keep the heat inside.
If you read through this and decide you still need some help, don't despair - ask the helpful folks at your neighborhood Ace store! And remember, if you have home improvement questions and need a little advice, send me an email at asklou@acehardware.com - I'd be glad to help!
Enjoy the cozy warmth of your energy-efficient space,

-Lou

 

Raleigh's Ace - 2525 Bridge Ave, Albert Lea, MN
D&G Ace - 1417 1st Ave. SW, Austin, MN
Cannon Falls Ace - 21265 County 24 Blvd, Cannon Falls, MN
Dodge Center Ace - 20 Airport Road N, Dodge Center
Faribault Ace Hardware - 421 2nd Ave. NW, Faribault, MN
Jackson Ace Hardware - 916 Highway 71 N, Jackson, MN
Luverne Ace Hardware - 210 E. Lincoln St., Luverne, MN
McCabes Ace Hardware - 1200 Main Street E., Sleepy Eye, MN
Retzlaff's Ace Hardware - 21 N. Minnestoa Ave, New Ulm, MN
Rushford MN Ace Hardware Store - 402 S. Mill St, Rushford, MN
St. Charles Ace Hardware - 1313 Whitewater Ave., St. Charles, MN
Schwalbach Hardware - 193 9th St., Windom, MN
Schwalbach Hardware - 1131 Oxford St., Worthington, MN

Start weatherproofing your Southern Minnesota home with these tips.

It's fall in Southern Minnesota.  Start weatherproofing your Southern Minnesota home with these tips.

Weatherproofing Your Home

The average house-even when well-insulated-contains cracks and gaps between building materials that add up to a hole about 14 inches square (see image below). In the winter, those gaps may make the house drafty and chilly. All year long, a leaky house not only wastes energy but can lead to water damage and provide a path for insects.
Inside this document you will find information about:

• Weatherproofing Basics
• Types of Caulking
• Using Caulking
• Types of Weatherstripping
• Installing Weatherstripping

WEATHERPROOFING BASICS

• In all the discussion of insulation and R-values, don't forget that poor weatherproofing is often a more important source of discomfort, as well as high heating and cooling bills.
• Some air leakage can be prevented during construction by using housewrap or getting a tight fit between framing members, for example. Once the house is built, however, the remaining gaps must be sealed. Gaps around doors and window sashes should be weatherstripped, and gaps between permanent building materials sealed with caulking.

TYPES OF CAULKING

• A number of factors must be considered when choosing caulking. They include durability, flexibility, whether the caulk can be painted and, of course, price.
• The most expensive caulk is not always the best product for every job, so you should carefully consider which product is appropriate to your situation. Read product labels and manufacturers' literature, and ask your salesperson for his or her recommendation.
• Here is a list of common caulks and their characteristics. Different types of caulking are designed for different applications, and quality can vary among different brands of the same type because of different formulations used.
• Always read and follow the manufacturer's directions.
• Oil-Base Painter's Caulk (1-2 yr. life) - Not very elastic. Dries out easily. Paintable after curing. Lowest cost.
• Latex (3-10 yr. life) - Use mostly indoors. Goes on easily. Low elasticity. Sticks to porous surfaces only. Easy water cleanup. Low in cost. Paintable.
• Butyl Rubber (3-10 yr. life) - High elasticity. Sticks to most surfaces. High moisture resistance. Flexible when cured. Most difficult to work with as it is very sticky.
• Acrylic Latex (10 yr. life) - Good elasticity. Sticks to most surfaces. Reasonable moisture resistance. Paintable. Good for around doors and windows. May not be used below freezing.
• Silicon-Latex Blend (20+ yr. life) - Good elasticity. Excellent weathering ability. Medium shrinkage. Adheres to most surfaces. Some cannot be painted. May not be used below freezing.
• Silicone (20-50 yr. life) - Excellent elasticity. Sticks very well. Excellent moisture resistance. Needs solvent to clean. Strong odor possible while curing. Low shrinkage. Generally not paintable, but available in many colors. May not be used below freezing. May be applied to wood, asphalt or metal, but not vinyl or masonry.
• Urethane (20-50 yr. life) - Excellent elasticity and adhesion. Excellent moisture resistance. Easy cleanup. Strong odor possible while curing. Low shrinkage. May not be used below freezing. May be applied to wood, brick, asphalt, metal, vinyl or concrete.
• Elastomeric Copolymers (50+ yr. life) - Excellent elasticity and adhesion. Will stick to damp surfaces. Can be applied below freezing. Cleanup with lacquer thinner. May be applied to wood, brick, asphalt, metal, vinyl or concrete.
• Polyurethane Foam Sealant (in aerosol can) - A specialized expanding foam product useful for filling large gaps. Expanding foam may be tricky to apply because of the amount of expansion but has excellent sealing and insulation qualities.
• How Caulks Are Packaged - 10-oz. (approx.) tubes for standard caulking guns are the most common size, but 1-qt. builder's tubes, 5-oz. squeeze tubes and rope caulk are also available. Approximate coverage, 10-oz. tube: 400' at 1/4" bead, 200' at 3/8", 100' at 1/2".
• Caulk Backer Rod - Most caulks should not be used on cracks larger than 3/8" or more than 1/2" deep (check the instructions). Fill large cracks with flexible foam backer rod.

USING CAULK

• Caulking should be applied to any gap where air, moisture or insects may penetrate the structure, including the following common locations:
• Joints between foundation and siding
• Joints between roof overhang and house
• Joints between window/door and siding
• At any penetrations into the house (i.e., telephone wires, TV cable, electrical conduit and gas and water pipes)
• Dryer, bathroom and kitchen vents
• Joints between the siding and chimney
• As a rule, surfaces must be clean and dry in order for caulking to stick. Loose material should be brushed away, and dirt, grease or oil should be removed with a detergent solution. Do not apply in cold weather, except as recommended by the manufacturer.
• To use a caulking gun, first pull the plunger all the way back and insert the caulking tube (see image). Turn the plunger so the notches engage the trigger of the gun, then push the plunger snugly against the heel of the tube. Cut the nozzle tip with the utility knife and make a hole the size of the bead you want. Puncture the seal at the top of the tube with a 16d nail.

• To apply caulking, squeeze the trigger and push-don't pull-the gun along the gap (see image). Pushing the gun drives caulking down into the gap and gives you better adhesion.
• To tool the joint, first wet your finger with soapy water (if the caulking is formulated for soap-and-water cleanup) or a dab of automotive hand cleaner (if the caulking is formulated for solvent cleanup). Run your finger along the joint, smoothing it and pressing the caulking into the joint. Wipe away excess with a rag.

TYPES OF WEATHERSTRIPPING

• The greatest source of air leakage in most homes occurs around doors, windows and access hatches such as the ceiling opening from the living area into an unheated attic (see image). Weatherstripping can be a delicate job because those openings need to be fitted loosely enough that the door or window operates freely, yet tightly enough that air leakage is stopped.
• The type of weatherstripping you'll use depends on the location and the type of opening. Three types of weatherstripping are common:
• Compression - Compression weatherstripping (see image below) is used to seal swinging doors and window sashes. It consists of a molded strip (it may be wood, aluminum or rigid vinyl) with a flexible vinyl bulb along one side. As a rule, compression weatherstripping is the most durable type available.

• V-Type Strips - V-shaped weatherstripping (see first two images below) is fitted against the side of the door or window jamb so it presses against the edge of the door or sash and forms a seal. V-stripping may be vinyl or bronze.
• Foam - Foam weatherstripping (see third image below) is used to seal either swinging or sliding doors or windows. It comes in various sizes, with an adhesive backing on one side. It is fastened to the edge of a door or window stop or to the bottom of a sliding window sash.
• Thresholds and Door Bottoms - A threshold fills the gap between the floor and the bottom of a door. It may have a built-in vinyl bulb. If not, it must be used in combination with a door bottom (see fourth image below), mounted on the lower edge of the door.

INSTALLING WEATHERSTRIPPING

• To weatherstrip a door, first install the threshold. Measure the distance from the floor to the bottom edge of the door; thresholds come in a number of heights-typically 5/8", 1" and 1-1/2". Choose a threshold that allows about a 1/2" gap to leave room for the vinyl bulb.
• The threshold should be placed so its highest point (or the center of the vinyl bulb, if the threshold has a built-in bulb) is directly under the door. Measure the width of the opening and cut the threshold to length with a hacksaw (aluminum thresholds) or a fine-toothed handsaw (wood thresholds). The threshold will probably have to be notched on each end so it fits around the door stops.
• Set the threshold in place and close the door to check the fit and position. Once the threshold is in place, mark the location on the floor, then open the door. Run a thin bead of caulking along the underside of the threshold on each side. Aluminum thresholds have a C-shaped channel along the edges to accept caulking. Set the threshold in place and screw it firmly to the floor.
• To apply compression weatherstripping to a door or swinging (casement) window, first close the door or window. If the door has a deadbolt, lock it. Cut each strip to length with a hacksaw or tin snips and stand it in place. Push the strip in toward the door or window sash so the bulb is partially compressed. Don't fit it too tightly or the door/window won't close properly. Nail the strip in place, starting from the center and working your way toward both ends. Check the door/window frequently to make sure it operates easily.
• To apply foam weatherstripping, cut the foam strips to length with scissors. Peel back about 1" of the adhesive cover strip and press the foam into place at the top of the door/window stop. Work your way down, peeling the cover strip away as you press the foam into place.
• To apply V-type weatherstripping to a door or swinging (casement) window, cut the strips to length with scissors (vinyl) or hacksaw (bronze). Place each strip on the jamb with the raised "V" facing away from the door or window sash, positioned so the door/window sash will be centered on the strip when closed. Fasten the strips in place.
• To apply V-type weatherstripping to a double-hung window, first lower the sash. Cut the strip to length and slip it down along the side of the sash with the raised "V" facing outside. Position the strip in the center of the sash and fasten it in place as far as possible. Raise the sash and repeat the process along the lower half of the strip.

TOOL AND MATERIAL CHECKLIST

Weatherstripping	Tin Snips
Hacksaw	Measuring Tape
Pencil	Hammer
Screwdriver	Scissors
Caulking	Caulking Gun
Utility Knife	Utility Blades
Paint/Lacquer Thinner	Rags
Wire Brush

 

Check your state and local codes before starting any project. Follow all safety precautions. Information in this document has been furnished by the North American Retail Hardware Association (NRHA) and associated contributors. Every effort has been made to ensure accuracy and safety. Neither NRHA, any contributor nor the retailer can be held responsible for damages or injuries resulting from the use of the information in this document.

Raleigh's Ace - 2525 Bridge Ave, Albert Lea, MN
D&G Ace - 1417 1st Ave. SW, Austin, MN
Cannon Falls Ace - 21265 County 24 Blvd, Cannon Falls, MN
Dodge Center Ace - 20 Airport Road N, Dodge Center
Faribault Ace Hardware - 421 2nd Ave. NW, Faribault, MN
Jackson Ace Hardware - 916 Highway 71 N, Jackson, MN
Luverne Ace Hardware - 210 E. Lincoln St., Luverne, MN
McCabes Ace Hardware - 1200 Main Street E., Sleepy Eye, MN
Retzlaff's Ace Hardware - 21 N. Minnestoa Ave, New Ulm, MN
Rushford MN Ace Hardware Store - 402 S. Mill St, Rushford, MN
St. Charles Ace Hardware - 1313 Whitewater Ave., St. Charles, MN
Schwalbach Hardware - 193 9th St., Windom, MN
Schwalbach Hardware - 1131 Oxford St., Worthington, MN

Keeping your car clean inside and out

Keeping your car clean inside and out can take a little work.  However, the reward is great.  Some even find it relaxing to clean the car. 

At your local Ace stores, we have everything you need for the inside and the outside.  From brushes to cleaners, we can help  you find what you need.  In addition, we have car accessories like windshield wipers and light bulb replacements. 

According to Popular Mechanics.com -
"We recommend hand washing," says Mike Pennington, director of training at auto-surface-products giant Meguiar's. "Our customers enjoy doing it. It's not a chore." Hand washing gives you a chance to experience the tactile shape of your baby, and it's also a great way to inspect and familiarize yourself with the car's surfaces.  But, Pennington says, don't be like the 60 percent of the population that uses dishwashing detergent when washing the car. It gets the car clean, but strips any protective wax coatings, exposing the vehicle to possible nicks, scratches, and stains.

Learn more at Popular Mechanics.

We recommend gathering all the items you will need prior to starting.  That way, you will have everything on hand.  You can also make it fun by getting the family involved. 

Talk to one of your Ace experts today about getting the supplies you need.

Shop at:
Raleigh's Ace - 2525 Bridge Ave, Albert Lea, MN
D&G Ace - 1417 1st Ave. SW, Austin, MN
Cannon Falls Ace - 21265 County 24 Blvd, Cannon Falls, MN
Dodge Center Ace - 20 Airport Road N, Dodge Center
Faribault Ace Hardware - 421 2nd Ave. NW, Faribault, MN
Jackson Ace Hardware - 916 Highway 71 N, Jackson, MN
Luverne Ace Hardware - 210 E. Lincoln St., Luverne, MN
McCabes Ace Hardware - 1200 Main Street E., Sleepy Eye, MN
Retzlaff's Ace Hardware - 21 N. Minnestoa Ave, New Ulm, MN
Rushford MN Ace Hardware Store - 402 S. Mill St, Rushford, MN
St. Charles Ace Hardware - 1313 Whitewater Ave., St. Charles, MN
Schwalbach Hardware - 193 9th St., Windom, MN
Schwalbach Hardware - 1131 Oxford St., Worthington, MN